2001 dmax dually

im wondering what it will take to get the frame hard on the ground over six 24 inch 10 luggers. like control arms, bag placement, 4 link setup. do i have to do anything with the fuel tank. where can i buy widened dually fenders? im just looking for frame flat on the ground. not a bd right now. where can i buy 24's and adapters? im working on a deal right now, but if it falls threw this is what im doing for sure. im guessing it will work out like matt spences truck from extensive. just wondering what im looking at. thank you.

josh

I did a lot of work on Ken's/now Matt's truck and let me tell you, it was a pain in the ass!!! We built new upper and lower arms, raised the uppers, flipped the lower ball joints, flipped the steering bar upside down (you will have to notch the bottom of the frame to do this), notch the shit out of the fire wall, cut out the finders, ect ect... In the rear on that dually is only running the outter 24s, the inners would rub the frame rails. The axle was narrowed 7", the 4 link has 2 bars going forward on the bottom and two going to the rear on the top. With 22s all the truck needs is a c-notch, 24s will need a very, very small notch and the finders in the bed will have to we made wider and a hair taller. We always use firestone 20c bags on those trucks from a semi truck. As far as the bed sides go I dont know of anyone that makes widen ones since it is the whole bed side, not just a finder. Also, the bed side is a nice plastic finder so it is going to be hard to get it plastic welded where it doesnt crack out. The wheels and adapters arent a big problem, I got them and so does a few other people that are on here. If there is anything else you need to know just ask and I will help you out the best I can!

yea i hear those new HD's are a pain but definately worth the hassle in the end bagged u help do that damn you are the man

so what wheels would i run for inside wheels? a 5050 link is suffeciant on these trucks? i thought it need'd to be a forward with a massive panhard. what price am i looking at for 4 24's and adapters? would slam 2800's out back and slam 2600 in front be sufficant since they do not ballon? does anyone offer control arms or do i need to pie cut these and reangle my balljoint so it does not bind? i think that should cover most of the questions. if i think of anymore i will ask. thank you for the quick reply.

josh

you're lookin at reworking the control arms or havin new ones made to place the balljoints at a higher position and different angles to keep them from binding, and get more drop out of the front suspension, along with a bag and spindle. the rear of course will need a big enough step notch, and a 2 or 4 link setup. you can place the bag behind the axle, over the axle, or over the link bars, just whatever tickles you're goat, but there are pros and cons to each of those placements. you'll probably be better off narrowing the rear end or swaping rear ends because the rear fenders on those trucks are all molded in, it's an all one piece plastic bed side that bolts on. not too sure about the gas tank though. and for the 24's, adapters, tires, lugs, lug caps and damn near anything else you need hit up lockone, he can get you takin care of.....

The balloning of the bag is not the prob, the truck has a lot of weight to pick up and if you are pulling it will have even more (I have slips where I have been at 28,000 lbs). You need to run the biggest bag you can fit in there, but thats just me... The arms are cast so you can not do anything to them, thats why we changed them. We use 97 chev lower ball joints. The new ball joints will face up insted of down so it pushes the spindle up thus creating a drop spindle (kind of), thats why we do it on Fords too... Since you flip the lower ball jint the upper arm has to be raised and so does the tie rod or you will creat bump steer and camber issues. On the inside of Matts truck is the stock 16 with a large tire. I am not sure what others sale there wheels for but if you email me off the list I will tell you my prices, Im not trying to get in a bid war on here.

HAHAH im not the man, I have just be very blessed to get to work on the coolest stuff in the scene and meet the coolest people which remindes me, I will be in Fl this weekend at the show so if anyone see's me holla!

Baggeddogs touched on everything that you will need to do on that truck to make it lay. He does good work and knows alot about this shit.
As for the wheels and stuff 4 24s inner16s and adapters with 295/35/24 Coopers with all the accessories will run around 5900. If you want 6 24s and tires add around 1800.
Those are my prices and I respect Mark(Baggeddogs) in his business and I don't won't to start a bid war either.
L8R

nice to see people actually gettin along and helping people out... instead of tryin to lowball eachother for a penny.



now get to work and lay htis bitch out




sorry not tryin to whore.

thank you so much for the help. could you give me some specs on the buildup of the control arms? and exactly how would i go about raising my top control arm? i understand the chamber and bumpsteer issues. i will not have to ditch my ac to do this right? the price is not bad either. are there any wheels already cut the look somewhat like mats or basically the same design? thats the design id like to acheive. thank everyone for the help and if i were to get a 4 link built by suicide doors what diamater and thickness would i need the four link and panhard? could a basic machine shop cut my rear axel down the 7 inchs? is that 7 inchs on both side or 3 1/2 on both sides? can i run the firestone 20c's on a cantalever? thanks everyone for all the help, best information ive ever recived. i appreciate it!

josh