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Mazda Engine General \  1993 Mazda B2200 Oil In Radiator

1993 Mazda B2200 Oil In Radiator

Mazda Engine General Mazda Engine Mazda Tech
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?93mb600i   +1y
My '93 B2200 overheated, the fan clutch went out and I didn't know it. As soon as the engine started getting hot I shut it off, I believe the gauge just went into the red before I could get it cooled off. I replaced the fan clutch and thought all was good until I checked the radiator fluid and it's full of oil. I'm not talking a light film of oil, I mean fill the radiator full of straight oil. There doesn't appear to be any water in the oil pan, I haven't pulled the engine apart yet. I was wondering if this would just be the head gasket or do you think it cracked the head???. I love this little pickup and I would like to get it back on the road.

Thanks for any info
Cusser   +1y
Well, the cylinder head is going to need removal to check for crack or warping. If lucky, just a head gasket. Folks have been happy with new heads from Clearwater in Florida.

Replace the small bypass hoses on the passenger side of the engine while doing this work, much easier to access then.
?93mb600i   +1y
I didn't know a head gasket would let that much oil through, I hated to pull the head to find out it's something more major, I didn't want the engine to sit open since I have no shop to work in.

Thanks for the hopes that it could be a head gasket, when I get a little time I will pull it apart.
mazdatweaker_2   +1y
The engine dumps water to the thermostat housing on the radiator and then pulls the water through the radiator core. That being said it is possible that the water from the head carried the water in, and that is where it shows now. It didn't migrate all the way to the sump to show on the stick. That being said. It is possible to re-torque the head and avoid a gasket repair and it is a good way to learn what a torque wrench is useful for.
Take valve cover off. Tag lines. Engine must be cold. Loosen radiator cap. Using a 1/2" Drive beam type. Bridge to headbolt. Using Torque chart, loosen each bolt to zero, and then re-tighten to 65 ft./lbs. DO THIS ONE BOLT ONLY ONE AT A TIME Work though each bolt in order. Reassemble valve cover and replace lines. Start engine and check for leaks. Flush cooling system. Winterize with 50/50 antifreeze. Don't drink antifreeze. Drink beer
?93mb600i   +1y
Thanks for the info, I didn't know that would work, I'll give it a shot
mazdatweaker_2   +1y
I forgot to include that you need to remove your spark plugs before attempting to re-torque the head You don't want any compression pressure pushing up on the head while you loosen the and then re-tighten the bolts.
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