machine shop to drill out a set wheels?

so i can get a set of some old school tsw 17s from a guy at work. free if i help him on his truck. i like them alot. 215/45/17. but, 5x4.75. chevy pattern. look like they'd tuck nice on an s10, which they're on. i have a 92 yota. big center cap style, with plenty of front and rear mounting flange meat/space for a second bolt pattern. really thick flange too if i need to make it thinner to tuck better. question is...how much is too much to pay to have them redrilled for 5x4.5"? center bore possibly too, anybody think id need to do that?

heres a picture. ill sandblast the rest of the chrome off and paint them dark silver. its flaking on the spokes, but good on the lip. which i want to leave chrome. for looks and ease of painting with the tires on.

btw, nankang tires. any good?

TSW Trojans, I don't think there that old school, could be wrong though. If I remember right they came out in the 2000's sometime. A guy I know bought a set of 20's when they came out.

before you go to all the work check the backspacing on them and see it they wont stick out too far on your yota.. im pretty sure that s-10s and yota have different backspacings

looks like they'd be super close on a yota if they are 6's or 7's.

If its close, i can take a bit of the back of the flange. its over an inch thick. and i have flared bedsides and fenders. just wondering a ballpark of fair price.

here in houston you can get them drilled and ceter bored for about $175.

thats what i was hoping is something under the 200 mark. any less and ill do it myself on a drillpress. might do that anyways. would be cheaper. ill get some backspace info soon to figure out if they'll fit.

biggest thing is not to run the back to thin when you shave mm's off of it. and when redrilling I recommend taking it to a shop to make sure the bolt pattern is correct and lug seat is proper.

Edited: 4/19/2008 12:57:22 AM by UnusualFabrication

Drill press huh, I guess if you had the right pattern and transfered punched it over I guess you could get close. I might want to use something a little more accurate like maybe a mill with a DRO. Swing in the center bore and then move out and start machining your pattern.