rear wheel locked up...

Need some advice here guys. My driver side rear wheel is locked up. well sort of. If i take the brake drum off of it, the axle will spin fine with no problems. But when i put the drum back on it, the drum will spin just a little and then lock up. The drum is brand new, very shiny on the inside not a spec of rust, the brakes themselves look ok. I was thinking of replacing the brakes and the wheel cylinder while i was at it just to see if that would cure the problem. Suggestions?

Also, unrelated ( i believe) I am just finishing up a v8 swap and ive bled the brakes once, when the truck is off, the pedal is firm likeit should be, but as soon as i fire the motor up i lose alot of pedal....whats going on? Im thinking vacuum leak but I have checked all the vacuum lines....

yea it sounds like you have a vacuum leak at the booster. check the line w/ some soapy water, its possible you have a dry rotted hose to hte booster. also does the motor have a big cam in it?

on the rear brakes, sounds like you have a bad/broke spring in your rear brakes.

with the first question......is it hard to remove and put on the drum and if so then i would say you have a stuck wheel cylinder and on the second question how big is the cam in the motor you have in it b/c i know with mine i had to put in a vacuum canister b/c my motor has such a big vacuum robbing cam that there wasn't enough to go around but once i did that they worked just fine

Edited: 10/17/2006 3:47:49 PM by cruisinlowS10

I just returned from the parts store with wheel cylinders and brakes for both rear wheels. going to put 'em in either tonight or in the morning. The brake drum doesnt want to go on or off without persuasion.

As far as the cam goes its a crane Duration 274/274, Lift .450/.450,,

the drum is new. its never been driven on. and as far as a dry rotted vacuum line from the booster, i replaced that line with a new one when i painted the firewall.

the drum you say it looks clean on the inside.is it a brand new drum or have you had it on and it just started acting up?if you have had it on for awhile maybe the drum is warped could be that one wheel end the brake shoe adjuster is toast because they do adjust them selves a little.is it hard to remove and install the drum when you try and take it of.did you use the e-brake for the fist time in a while maybe the e-brake cable is seized if you did use it for the first time in a while

it could also be the star adjuster when you you messed with the brakes it could of been adjusted outward to much you can spin the star to bring the shoes back in that should work some also and you should bleed the brakes once or twice with the engine running if you dont find a vacuume leak because with the power the pedal will fall with the power ass.

Edited: 10/17/2006 7:58:34 PM by cruisinlowS10

if i were to add a vacuum canister would i just tie into the vacuum line coming off the brake booster? also do i need a stock canister or do i need to step up to the aftermarket ones.

well just finished up putting new brakes and wheel cylinders in both rear wheels. seems to have fixed the wheel trying to lock up problem. those wheel cylinders were shot on both sides. total garbage. Man i wish i had discs on the rear! I am about to tackle the vacuum issue. I hope that i can use a vacuum ball like came stock b/c id have to order an aftermarket canister and i simply cant wait on it to ship. i need this truck on the road today!

dude honestly i havent ran rear brakes in forever.i hate drums and front are bias like 60 to 70 percent,i think on light trucks it s 75.alot of people knock b/c i say this but my truck has always stopped better than anyones.not to mention burnouts ,i just sayin