7'' brake booster problems HELP!

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7'' brake booster problems HELP!
insaneautoconcepts avatar
insaneautoconcepts
+1y
Ok here I sell mbm products also. Yes Ihave had problems with a few things but never had a problem Like this. Are you sure that you have the right master for what you need? What size lines are you running. We use 3-16 with ss braided lines and Have no problems but with one of the pro valves and one booster ( which they sent a new one for both) Doesnt really sound right about the port size. Sounds like no o-rings in the master. I have a tech number for MBM if you like you can call and talk to Anwar. Dont bash until you have multiple problems with them. Thats not good for any of us.
bodydropped85 avatar
bodydropped85
+1y
Edited: 8/21/2006 9:22:15 PM by bagged85

have the truck running what a dumbshit. i worked at midas for over a year, so i think i mite know brakes

strait from alldata...Manual Bleeding

1-If vehicle is equipped with power brakes, remove vacuum reserve by applying brakes several times with engine off. 2-Fill master cylinder reservoirs with suitable brake fluid. Be sure to always keep master cylinder reservoirs at least half full during entire bleeding procedure. 3-If master cylinder is suspected to have air in the bore, it must be bled first, as follows: a Disconnect forward brake pipe connection at master cylinder. b Allow brake fluid to fill master cylinder bore until it begins to flow from forward pipe connector port. c Connect and tighten forward brake pipe at master cylinder. d Depress brake pedal slowly one time and hold, then loosen forward brake pipe connection at master cylinder to purge air from bore. Tighten connection, then release brake pedal slowly. Wait 15 seconds, then repeat sequence, including 15 second wait, until all air is purged from bore. e Bleed rear bore of master cylinder as front bore was bled.4 Bleed right rear brake as follows: a Depress brake pedal slowly one time and hold. b Loosen bleeder valve to purge air from brake, then tighten bleeder valve and slowly release pedal. c Wait 15 seconds, then repeat sequence, including 15 second wait, until all air is purged.5 Bleed left rear, right front, and left front brakes, in that order, using same method as for right rear brake. 6 Check brake operation and ensure pedal is firm. Also check master cylinder fluid level and add fluid as necessary. 7 Turn off brake warning light by applying moderate pressure to brake pedal several times. 8 Road test vehicle.

DaGreenMonster avatar
DaGreenMonster
+1y
hey man, i bought the same booster/mc from fatrodder on ebay and i got the same problem. we bled the master and the brakes 3 times, and still the same issue. at first we had a lot of trouble just getting pressure out of the master cylinder, but after multiple times we finally got it. and even when we bled each corner, it was tough to get pressure. Ive driven the truck, but the brakes are nowhere near where they should be. I have to really press down hard on the pedal just to slow down and i need to start braking atleast 100 feet back....so a new M/C should be the fix? how about the proportioning valve? im running one off an older s10, could that be the issue as well?
suckafree avatar
suckafree
+1y
Edited: 8/23/2006 12:35:25 AM by suckafree

I cannot garauntee that is your problem because I have not driven my truck down the road yet. But I went from getting no pressure to getting full pressure like I used to. And also I can jack the truck up, spin the wheel, hit the brakes....and the wheels stop! which didnt happen with the mbm MC.My proportioning valve is the stock one for my truck....87 blazer....so it should be the same as yours. Downside is I no longer have a cool look Master Cylinder, but I would rather stop than hit someone with a cool looking useless brake setup. I should have the truck on the road friday....I'll let you know how it goes.
built to drag avatar
built to drag
+1y
fattrodder is a fucking jerked off company too. you cant askem any thing and the same item has like 5 different prices. i shyed away from them after i called. i was thinking of just useing the 7 inch booster with my factory m/c i hope i works out but i havent tryed it yet. i curious about this post and every ones elses experiences too. keep us posted
Dejavu avatar
Dejavu
+1y
i bought two things from them..... a master cylinder and some ceramic headers... both had a crappy finihs on them. the customer service was great when i called but then again it was a sexy sounding girl so maybe i was wowed byher voice. but i called them and asked them to ship the headers out to me fster and they got em to me right away for no extra cost. but yea great i have the same master as you guys and if i have the same problem im going ot be pissed. anyone got a master from them and not have any problems?
suckafree avatar
suckafree
+1y
really depends on what your putting the booster on as to if you can use your stock M/C. The one on my blazer had an O.D (outer diameter) of like 2 1/4" and the O.D of the booster was 1 9/16''. I found 2 compatable ones that will mount:1980 Chevy Fullsize truck M/Cand1998 Chevy Malibu M/CI went with the fullsize one for 2 reasons1. The fullsize ports are bigger2. The fullsize one was 30 bucks for a complete setup and the Malibu M/C was 90 with a $25 core and that is before a reservoir.Originally posted by built to drag



fattrodder is a fucking jerked off company too. you cant askem any thing and the same item has like 5 different prices. i shyed away from them after i called. i was thinking of just useing the 7 inch booster with my factory m/c i hope i works out but i havent tryed it yet. i curious about this post and every ones elses experiences too. keep us posted

DaGreenMonster avatar
DaGreenMonster
+1y
where did u get the fullsize mc