2-LINK

i know the war of the links but im going to try this setup the pict should explain most but ill add that the rear pipe is welded to the end of the bars along with the gussets i think it will work with out binding and aliminate that side to side sway of other 2 links and not have to run a pan hard bar tell me what you think but try to keep the hatin down im on a very tight budget and dont need very much lift

i know someone has an somthin to say

i kinda like the generalized idea... however instead of roundbar could you use square bar like the link bars so this way with the gussets it might be a lil more stronger, i understand your trying to keep the axel centered however i dont see that happening this way. however i do like how its a strong looking setup. however i understand your not looking more much lift but with the limited lift your going to get anyways why not get it much closer to the pivit point as youll probably desire more lift at a later point i know i did. anyways these are just my thoughts ignore them if you want

see im keeping the stock tank in the stock location just movin it up an inch ive had mechanical advantige before im keeping the bed floor are as much as possible because its a work truck(as funny as that sounds for a mini but.....) so body dropping the bed isnt going to work ither but i will keep the box tubing idea see what works and what wont

save your money from the superpivots, theres no axle articulation with a 2 link.

im hoping with the superpivits i will have articulation

SUPERPIVOTS UP FRONT

Originally posted by GET TWISTED



im hoping with the superpivits i will have articulation



hope all you want. There is no articulation with a 2 link, other than the frame flex.

Make a representative two link out of three 2x4s, one for the axle, 2 for the links. Nail them all together. Have two friends stand on the "bushing" ends of the two links, just with the front of their shoes. Thats your super pivot. Lift the "axle" up in the middle, both sides go up and down real nice. Lift the "axle" up from one corner, oops, both sides still go up and down the same height. Try forcing one side down while lifting the other side up. Your friends standing on the two link ends will tell you the boards are trying to twist out from under their feet. If they hold down too tightly you will hear the nails you attched the "two links" to the "axle" start cracking and seperating.

Cant change physics, even with hope.

Ok...im no expert but if you're not gonna run a pan hard you need to be sure that your axel is centered and all square because you're gonna have no way for adjustment if your rear end is out of alignment. you probably know this already but nobody else mentioned it. i run a 2 link on my truck and people tell you there is no articulation. there is but it isn't much at all. def not enough for super pivots. i have bushings on mine and they work fine.

heres my question, why screw with a 2 link any ways? whats wrong with your leafs? your ona budget, so why not use what you have? back iin the old days we used to take off our leaf spriong pack, and take it to a leaf spring builder, and have them flatten out the spring pack. they had no lifting properties to them at all, they just locate the axle. cost about 40 bucks, and articulates, centers, holds, just like factory.. just add air bags

in my opinion thats the best best for you. screw the two link. if your goin through the trouble of tryin to make a 2 link work, then add a nother 2 bars,a nd do a tri-four link. its not much harder, and you could have made it by now. cost, about 100 bucks to make your own 4 link. if your on a budget and cant spend that, then stay with yourleafs..