PA Noob...better have some time to kill, great for work!
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PA Noob...better have some time to kill, great for work!
josh_g
+1y
names josh, from the Reading, PA area, been creeping around the board for a long time but finally decided to join not to long ago so i can hopefully soon start posting my build....
messed around with this stuff for a long time but this is my first owned full size, played with minis for awhile
got an 87 c30 BB 2wd quad cab with a sweet tow package, a 10,000 GVW and a red interior complete with track lighing and a bread box for a center console, captain chairs and a rear seat that folds down, a choo choo special! haha
plan is to stock floor body drop, stock bed floor, semis, bag & DRAG! and who knows what else, this is plan version # 1 cuz we all know something is gonna change
but as usual waiting on some stuff but i got a bunch of ??'s for ya guys that have been there and done that.
1. either Z or drop member - > this thing dont turn for poop so a rack/pinion seams like a good idea, does it fix the steering ability? and bolt in seams easier on angles and such but mighty pricy
2. then there comes the issue of semis, cuz they look so good!
REAR : C&C seams the way to go but id like to go discs, IF i can find one with discs will it work with the semis? as far as bolting the adapters on and lugs and such? ( maybe trevor ( lockone) could clear that up)
OR
just get the setup i've seen a couple of ya do with the adapters and whatnot? maybe cheaper
also whats with a couple of ya i saw cutting up the fenders and moving them either up or down? ( dont remember) whats that all for? with the C&C, cheater 16" and semis and apaters is there enough room?
22" or 24" is also a debate, I see Trevor matches the 24s with a 305/35R24, with out seeing it seams pretty stoudt of a tire. how much effort to tuck these bad boys?
Factory 215/85R16 = 30.38 in
265/35R22 = 29.30 in
305/40R22 = 31.60 in
305/35R24 = 32.40 in
FRONT : I have seen so many different ways of laying out with semis either with the 22 0r 24 : stock arms, cut up stocks and aftermarket arms. 1/2, 3/4 and 1 ton pieces in the front (spindles, rotors, arms, balljoints and etc) plain and simple, whats the best way and why?? I know it might be vauge but trying to get the ball rolling here. as far as drop spindles, they make a 2" and a 3"?
as far as heat and ac, might run a setup from a suburban rear heat / ac combo or just get the kit thing
3.Bags: whats the best to use? I have seen a bunch of different setups, and for the weight i was thinking 1/2 line and valves? hopefully not to quick
thinking a simple notch, with either tri 4 link, or parallel 4 link with a panhard or watts, brace the notch in from side to side and maybe run a removable goose, because ya never know! Im thinking bag over axle for strength but can you get enough lift and still lay? engine driven with a backup elec compressor
4. the stock bed floor dilemma : NOW that i know the whole thing unbolts, might make it a little simpler. thinking about taking the floor out and making some sort of brackets to raise the floor up so no need to cut it up. I have seen some pics of them done but they are hard to come by. also i figured with the notch and everything there will be some way to tie it all together
5. Body Drop :
now if i got this right, ( never tried a stock floor, just traditional) once layed out for the cab, i can cut the factory frame off the bottom till flush, then box it in, move the front horns down, cut the trans tunnel out, move / cut some stuff off the cab that's in my way. now do i have to move the mounts for the cab? and for the bed do i have to move any or just work with my stock bed floor idea... ( sorry guys I have yet to rip this thing apart due to the fact its 22' feet long and space is kinda limited at the moment)
some other goodies in my head, blazer rear tank, hidden hitch, shaved and all that fun stuff.
now that i have just started my book if anyone got some answers, ideas, comments good or bad, let me have it!
but thanks in advanced, you guys rock
now if i can only figure out where all those one piece power rear windows went!
messed around with this stuff for a long time but this is my first owned full size, played with minis for awhile
got an 87 c30 BB 2wd quad cab with a sweet tow package, a 10,000 GVW and a red interior complete with track lighing and a bread box for a center console, captain chairs and a rear seat that folds down, a choo choo special! haha
plan is to stock floor body drop, stock bed floor, semis, bag & DRAG! and who knows what else, this is plan version # 1 cuz we all know something is gonna change
but as usual waiting on some stuff but i got a bunch of ??'s for ya guys that have been there and done that.
1. either Z or drop member - > this thing dont turn for poop so a rack/pinion seams like a good idea, does it fix the steering ability? and bolt in seams easier on angles and such but mighty pricy
2. then there comes the issue of semis, cuz they look so good!
REAR : C&C seams the way to go but id like to go discs, IF i can find one with discs will it work with the semis? as far as bolting the adapters on and lugs and such? ( maybe trevor ( lockone) could clear that up)
OR
just get the setup i've seen a couple of ya do with the adapters and whatnot? maybe cheaper
also whats with a couple of ya i saw cutting up the fenders and moving them either up or down? ( dont remember) whats that all for? with the C&C, cheater 16" and semis and apaters is there enough room?
22" or 24" is also a debate, I see Trevor matches the 24s with a 305/35R24, with out seeing it seams pretty stoudt of a tire. how much effort to tuck these bad boys?
Factory 215/85R16 = 30.38 in
265/35R22 = 29.30 in
305/40R22 = 31.60 in
305/35R24 = 32.40 in
FRONT : I have seen so many different ways of laying out with semis either with the 22 0r 24 : stock arms, cut up stocks and aftermarket arms. 1/2, 3/4 and 1 ton pieces in the front (spindles, rotors, arms, balljoints and etc) plain and simple, whats the best way and why?? I know it might be vauge but trying to get the ball rolling here. as far as drop spindles, they make a 2" and a 3"?
as far as heat and ac, might run a setup from a suburban rear heat / ac combo or just get the kit thing
3.Bags: whats the best to use? I have seen a bunch of different setups, and for the weight i was thinking 1/2 line and valves? hopefully not to quick
thinking a simple notch, with either tri 4 link, or parallel 4 link with a panhard or watts, brace the notch in from side to side and maybe run a removable goose, because ya never know! Im thinking bag over axle for strength but can you get enough lift and still lay? engine driven with a backup elec compressor
4. the stock bed floor dilemma : NOW that i know the whole thing unbolts, might make it a little simpler. thinking about taking the floor out and making some sort of brackets to raise the floor up so no need to cut it up. I have seen some pics of them done but they are hard to come by. also i figured with the notch and everything there will be some way to tie it all together
5. Body Drop :
now if i got this right, ( never tried a stock floor, just traditional) once layed out for the cab, i can cut the factory frame off the bottom till flush, then box it in, move the front horns down, cut the trans tunnel out, move / cut some stuff off the cab that's in my way. now do i have to move the mounts for the cab? and for the bed do i have to move any or just work with my stock bed floor idea... ( sorry guys I have yet to rip this thing apart due to the fact its 22' feet long and space is kinda limited at the moment)
some other goodies in my head, blazer rear tank, hidden hitch, shaved and all that fun stuff.
now that i have just started my book if anyone got some answers, ideas, comments good or bad, let me have it!
but thanks in advanced, you guys rock
now if i can only figure out where all those one piece power rear windows went!
someotherguy
+1y
Looks like pretty solid starter material, you better get to work fast though! Isn't it about ready to be chilly in PA soon?
Richard
Richard
lockone
+1y
Welcome to the site and Great first post with pictures. There are alot of questions to answer in the post but I will try to answer the ones that were directed at me and everyone else can fill in where they can.
On the rear of your truck with semis you basically have 3 options: 1==Narrow rearend or C&C rearend, 2==Widen rear dually fenders, and 3==Run our Townasty wheels(no modifications and 22s only).
Adapters work the same with disk or drum rears on your bodystyle truck.
If you are planning on body dropping the truck on 24s then a 305/35/24 is way to much tire as your rear dually fenders will be flush with the top of your bed rails. I sale more 22s for this bodystyle truck than I do 24s.
Front suspension setup always depends on how low you are going and with what size wheels. Alot of people with your style truck run a 3/4 ton setup with lengthened control arms. Spindles in either size will work.
Bags and link setup are usually personal preference. I prefer tri-4links over parallel 4links but with the newer Watts link kits they are getting easier to install.
Hope that helps.
On the rear of your truck with semis you basically have 3 options: 1==Narrow rearend or C&C rearend, 2==Widen rear dually fenders, and 3==Run our Townasty wheels(no modifications and 22s only).
Adapters work the same with disk or drum rears on your bodystyle truck.
If you are planning on body dropping the truck on 24s then a 305/35/24 is way to much tire as your rear dually fenders will be flush with the top of your bed rails. I sale more 22s for this bodystyle truck than I do 24s.
Front suspension setup always depends on how low you are going and with what size wheels. Alot of people with your style truck run a 3/4 ton setup with lengthened control arms. Spindles in either size will work.
Bags and link setup are usually personal preference. I prefer tri-4links over parallel 4links but with the newer Watts link kits they are getting easier to install.
Hope that helps.
josh_g
+1y
someotherguy - yeah temps in pa starting to drop, not a fan
trevor - thanks for the info, we will see which route i end up going i wanted to go with the 24s but i kinda figured it be a PITA to get it lay frame and pinch... that and 2" will save a whole lotta cash...
thanks guys, keep it up
trevor - thanks for the info, we will see which route i end up going i wanted to go with the 24s but i kinda figured it be a PITA to get it lay frame and pinch... that and 2" will save a whole lotta cash...
thanks guys, keep it up
josh_g
+1y
What is the advantage of swapping over to 3/4T? Because by this information you have to change the spindles and rotors? are they more offset for space? But By lock's info :
using 3/4 and longer arms, isnt that just like running a 1T setup with factory length arms??
All of this to of course fit semis in the future
just highly confused!
anyone point in the right direction here?
bdydrppup
+1y
hey man check out my build thread on here. it will anwser alot of questions and show alot of pictures. if u got anymore jus let me know. it under drooley project
ybnrmaldually
+1y
welcome to the forum