Relay wiring and such- HELP

if that diagram is for your bags then all you have to do to tie in your autoloc system is to run diodes in line with the output wire from the autoloc. What the diode will do is block the current from traveling in a certain direction, essentially what your'e doing when the relay is open. If you just connected all of the dump wires together on to the autoloc output, then when you hit a switch on your box, all of those wires would be tied together, that problem can be eliminated using the diodes.

Sorry if this just confuses you more, but you don't have to use relays to control your bag valves, they already have a relay on top of the valve, they just need a low current voltage to power them.

But the autoloc is -.500ma.... not a + 12Vpos current.

Would I need to use a diode on a negative electrical loop?

Mike,

I do have to use relays to switch the Autoloc's -.500ma signal to a 12V+ signal.

In doing so- as the diagram shows, I plan to run the switches negative as well- thinking it would work fine using the relays to reverse polarity to send 12V+ signals to the airride valve coils.

Originally posted by msturg



if that diagram is for your bags then all you have to do to tie in your autoloc system is to run diodes in line with the output wire from the autoloc. What the diode will do is block the current from traveling in a certain direction, essentially what your'e doing when the relay is open. If you just connected all of the dump wires together on to the autoloc output, then when you hit a switch on your box, all of those wires would be tied together, that problem can be eliminated using the diodes.

Sorry if this just confuses you more, but you don't have to use relays to control your bag valves, they already have a relay on top of the valve, they just need a low current voltage to power them.

thats not a relay on top of the valves, its a high current (3-10a, believe me thats high current compared to the 200 milliamp the relay coil uses) electromagnetic solenoid.

Using diodes in a high current application can get more expensive than using relays, especially for 3-10 diodes.

The back feed you are talking about is eliminated completely by using the relays, and since he has to use relays anyway (to turn the low cutrrent - pulse into a high current + pulse the solenoid can use) the wiring I suggested (if he was using a switch box) would be more efficient than diodes, which still leak.

Yes, the diagram you posted Jody will work if all you have is an up switch and a down switch. The only thing is that the generally accepted configuration for relays is 87 is supply and 30 out. It will still work wired the way you have it in that diagram though, dont let me tell you it wont.

Ok that sounds good.

I haven't done any of the wiring yet... (raining outside today) but I've seen it done both ways. The Autoloc instructions use 86/30 for 12V+constant, 85 for -NEGswitched, and 87 output to solenoid on their shaved door diagram which is what I modified for the airride system details.

I do understand what you're saying though using 86/87 as 12V+constant, 85 for -NEGswitched, and 30 output to solenoid. Will either way be preferred such as in relay logevity/life?

Cool deal, looks like I'll have fun doing my crimping/heatshrinking pretty soon. I only had 10 40A relays to begin with and this will save me a few by only using 2 per window-left/window-right/airride-front/airride-rear and door poppers- using exactly 10 as originally configured (before the reversing polarity window motor brainfart I had not originally put much thought into untill last night).

Thanks again...