f$ck autoloc

no autolocs solenoids are shit, the parts they use rust hella quick, thats the big problem with them.

one word..... SPAL

You guys are probably all right, but I know that on my Silverado if the cable from the solenoid to the door latch was too tight, it would do the same thing. Went the same route that everyone has mentioned and finally figured out that's what it was. Autoloc is the best there is IMO, it's more than likely something simple to fix.

Originally posted by Layd2Rest



one word..... SPALDITTO!

Originally posted by loudciv



Originally posted by Layd2Rest



one word..... SPALDITTO!



YUP!

Edited: 12/19/2005 11:56:40 AM by slammitsu

Originally posted by loudciv



Originally posted by Layd2Rest



one word..... SPALDITTO!



I Agree!!

I had a similar problem with my autolocs. When the door was open they worked fine, close it and I just got a faint click. Only did it on the passenger side. It turned out that the 35 lb solenoid couldn't pull the latch when it was closed. I adjusted the latch and it got a little better bu was still intermittent. I used all the same wiring with my SPAL kit, and haven't had a problem yet.

i agree spal is better theres no such thing as a bad ground with them because they use a looped circut so all the wires run both ways no finding a ground and $hit mines a daily and i have my stuff installed since i got it and never had a problem

DooredZoo. The problem is not with the solenoid. It has to do with the tension you are putting on the cable. I have Autoloc door solenoids and if you have the cable to tight on the latch it will not pop but get a click. If you give the cable a little bit of slack the solenoid will pop just fine. No lubing or ajusting the latch. try putting a little slack on the cable from the popper itself.

fuck autoloc and get a solenoid out of a blazer that pops the back window open, they work everytime, open any doors, and there like $3 each at the junk yard