Wiki Home \ How To: uca bushings and shaft
View Photos
Then run to the parts store and get the bushing and shaft shift using this number.
This is what all comes in the kit. You get the shaft, 2 bushings, 2 rubber seals, and 2 zerk fittings.
This shows you just how all the threads in the bushings get greased and work properly.(this is the new shaft)
So get your new shaft situated in the vice like so.
Go ahead and put your new rubber seals on.
Make sure to go ahead and throw some red grease on the shaft threads and inside of the bushings.
At this point you need to clean the existing threads out of the control arm itself.
Go ahead and screw your bushings on to the shaft and inside of the control arm at the same time.(tighten the piss out of them.) also screw your zerk fittings in
When your all done you should have something that looks like this.
After everything is done make sure to go ahead and fill the zerk fittings with grease and make sure everything is tight and good to go. When dissasembling the control arms make sure and note where the shims are for alignment purposes. With that being said you may need to get it aligned again once you do this due to the fact that when it was aligned it was aligned with the slop of the bushings.
This is how bad mine was.
[url=:qz3tlc6n]
Now enjoy your nice safe slop free ride.
-justin
How To: uca bushings and shaft
Last Updated: Feb 24, 2015View Photos
Well i was in need of changing my upper control arm bushings and shaft so figured i would take a few pics during the process to share.
First you need to get your control arm off the truck and get it situated in the vice like so.
Then run to the parts store and get the bushing and shaft shift using this number.
This is what all comes in the kit. You get the shaft, 2 bushings, 2 rubber seals, and 2 zerk fittings.
This shows you just how all the threads in the bushings get greased and work properly.(this is the new shaft)
So get your new shaft situated in the vice like so.
Go ahead and put your new rubber seals on.
Make sure to go ahead and throw some red grease on the shaft threads and inside of the bushings.
At this point you need to clean the existing threads out of the control arm itself.
Go ahead and screw your bushings on to the shaft and inside of the control arm at the same time.(tighten the piss out of them.) also screw your zerk fittings in
When your all done you should have something that looks like this.
After everything is done make sure to go ahead and fill the zerk fittings with grease and make sure everything is tight and good to go. When dissasembling the control arms make sure and note where the shims are for alignment purposes. With that being said you may need to get it aligned again once you do this due to the fact that when it was aligned it was aligned with the slop of the bushings.
This is how bad mine was.
[url=:qz3tlc6n]
Now enjoy your nice safe slop free ride.
-justin
Credits
Created By: dropped90(justin)
Page 1 of 5
dropped90(justin)
+1y
believe it or not man i bought 2 bushings for 24 bucks a piece. got it apart and realized that its the shaft that actually gets worn for the most part because the new bushing was just as loose as the old ones. you cant buy the shaft by itself. so i called my boy up at autozone and he said he can get me the whole kit for 31 bucks. haha go figure. so im kinda glad the shaft was messed up because instead of having 100 bucks in 4 bushings i have 63ish for all 4 bushings and the two shafts. so now everything is new in the front
-justin
-justin
baha
+1y
Very nice work! will be great to add to the tech section!
I really liked how you included the video
I really liked how you included the video
Post was last edited on May 12, 2009 10:05. This post has been edited 1 times.
dropped90(justin)
+1y
okay i done this on my mazda which is bagged in the front so theres not really a suspension to unload other than to flick a switch. When i first got my mazda and i through on some temporary drop spindles i unbolted the lower arm from the balljoint and didnt experience much of an "unloading force". So there isnt really much to worry about when doing this. To get your upper control arm off you want to take the 2 12mm bolts loose from the top side of the control arm that run down into the balljoint. You must do this first because once you have your uca loose from the mount this can turn in to a real pain in the ass. Then Your goin to take the 2 17mm bolts loose from the uppercontrol arm into the mount. you can get to these by simply raising the hood on your truck and looking down at the frame. when you do this again make sure that you note where the shims are before you remove the arm. (this is for alignment purposes). With you doing it this way you do not even have to take the wheel off of the truck or the spindle, or brakes or anything really. hope this helps.
-justin
-justin
Post was last edited on May 12, 2009 10:05. This post has been edited 1 times.
Page 1 of 5