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Yota Lowering \  Need to go lower

Need to go lower

Yota Lowering Yota Suspension Yota Tech
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following 7
 
islander671   +1y
Right now my 86' has a 2 inch drop all around. The front is sitting on the lower bump stops right now but I want to go lower, If I remove the stock bump stops and put the low profile ones on will the truck just go lower and sit on those as well? The reason i ask is because i removed the stops and cut them about an inch and the truck went lower but it's still sitting on them. Also is that the reason why my ride qaulity sucks. How can I get better ride qaulity and go lower? Any help would be great........
smctoy   +1y
You can take the bump stops out completly & that will help with the ride & height as well, but to get lower you need to spend some money. You can invest in some 2-inch drop spindles or get a set of 3-inch drop/lower control arms. If your planning to bag your truck in the future then I would suggest getting the drop spindles that way you can use them when you do the bag job. If your not planning to go adjustable then Id get the 3-inch drop/lower control arms with some drop shocks. The plus with the arms is that you get alittle lower, but you cant use them when you go adjustable cause they are not designed to put bags on them. I got the 3-inch drop/lower control arms on my truck & Im also going to bag my truck soon, but I bought a set of custom upper/lower control arms so I can elimate the strut rods/stabalizer bars in the front so I dont have no worries.
islander671   +1y
So if I remove the bump stops will there be any metal to metal contact. And as for the rear could i go with a 4 inch block and adjustable air shocks? How's the ride on adjustable air shocks? I appreciate all the help as I'm fairly new to this.
layedout72   +1y
My ideal static drop would 2 inch spindles, cranked torsions to sit about a half inch above the tires, for the front. for the rear i would pull a leaf with 3 inch (angled) blocks. it's going to ride really good up front even taking out the bumpstops completely. I had mine fully cranked on 16s and no spindles and it was bearable. my buddy has a fronty like i mentioned and it's super fun to ride in and the front has a good 3 or so inches of travel. he bottoms out before anything hits.

so....

front:
2 inch spindles
crank torsions (and re-kay them!)

back:
pull center leaf (leaving the main and helper spring)
and then put 3 inch angled blocks. (grant fab has these)
layedout72   +1y
thread post photo


thats my truck with the static drop i had. no spindles, just torsion (un keyed). from what i understand re-keying them sorta relieves pressure and allows a bit more travel. someone correct me if im wrong. my truck rode just fine, didnt bottom out, and i loved driving it. thats how it would sit on 205/40/16's just so you know what size those are.
2thpic   +1y
i had my stoped pulled out all around and bars cranked all the way down. i never hit metal to metal cu the shocks bottomed out first. in the back, 3" drop blocks and pulled the middel leaf out and left the small on so the main leaf wouldn't give out or invert it self. it road about 1" from frame. my ride is good but any load in back and it hits frame. i plan on doing a 4" or 6" notch in back and runn air shocks. i'm keeping static not bagging. o, also i fliped the ball joints in front to get lower. it got allmost 1" lower just by doing that. when done you will prob. have to cut out your finder wells. That's where i'm at not.

here's some pics

this is that bar that runs from side to side, don't know if it is needed. if not then it's comming out. lol

layedout72   +1y
yep. thats about where mine was. that little crossbar thing was tore up when i got it bagged. first thing that hit the ground haha.
nvr2low   +1y
that lil crossbar thing is ur transmission crossmember...lmao
layedout72   +1y



no....its not. "lmao" it's just an extra crossmember. "lmao" your tranny mounts behind that on a welded in crossmember, not a bolted in piece of round tubing.
nvr2low   +1y

my bad imma dumbass...