rear setup without fourlink...

hey,
alright well i just got my yota and im going over it trying to figure out ho to make her lay more on the ass end... its running mono leaf right now with a c-notch, if i make up a monstor notch for it will it lay right out? or do i have to do a fourlink at the same time?? also, if i cut my inner fender sout, whats the biggest sized wheels i can tuck?? thanx guys , l8r...

A 4 link would be recommended for this. Mono-leafing is really not the safest thing, ask anyone that had one break on them. Another option is the lowering leafs, those are ususally made of fiberglass. Another thing that limits the back from going lower is the shocks. You can relocate or go with a smaller stroke. I would relocate instead of the smaller stroke, less limitations.

4-link is your better and safer solution plus, if you have futire plans on bagging your ride your one step closer to having it done.

Is the axle hitting the c-notch when its layed out?

well from what i can see the axle isnt hitting it... i think the bag restricts it... the bags are behind the axle right now if that makes a defference... i just want it to lay out for this year then next year do maybe a reverse four link so i dont have to worry about my gas tank.....

i would stay away from reverse four links also, a good clean reliable set up that allows you to get low and still not to move the gas tank would be a three link...ill show you a picture of my 88 and how it was bagged in the rear.(ill go take some pictures today and post em up for ya) also, seth (twistedminis) bagged his truck similar to mine only he mounted his bags behind the axle where as mine are on it. neither of us had to move the gas tank but you'll have to move it up a couple of inches so it dont drag. if you notch your frame and keep the mono-leaf there it will get down as low as the shackle touching the ground...but like the other guy said a mono-leaf system isnt the safest in the world i wouldnt reccomend it either. plus is rides pretty rough.

p.s. i tuck 17" with 215/40/zr17 i was having a problem rubbin on my wheel wells in the back when rollin nose bleed but laid out it touched a little bit.

I wouldn't say that the reverse 4 isn't the way to go. I have the reverse 4 from Can Do and so far I have seen no limitations that don't affect the forward 4 or 3link. The only way I can ever see brake fade, drive line pull out...etc... is if its not set up properly. The shock placement is the most crucial of the setup. The shock limits the travel of the lift and pinion, I only get a couple of degrees rotation wether its at ride height or laid out. Hell I got more pinion twist running mono leaf than anything I have encountered with the reverse 4.

The reason why people have brake fade is plain and simple, larger rims and factory brakes. Its like building a motor with 1500hp. what is the point in having that much power if you can't stop it?? Large rims and tires increase weight (slow acceleration, slow braking) and without the beefing up of the factory brakes (typically drums in the rear and puny disc up front)that need to be upgraded i.e. larger rotors, dual piston calipers, rear disc brakes, larger brake booster, etc... are what is needed. Another example look at some of the ricermobiles out there. Most of them had maybe a 15in factory rim. They slap a low profile tire on a 19in. rim the car doesn't accelerate as quickly, doesn't brake properly. Why?? for one they have added an additional 20lbs to each rotor, larger diameter rim and tire (most cases) but they still run on the factory 10in rotor and factory oem pads or the cheapest set Autozone has. When things like that get modified something else is going to take the abuse and eventually break.


I'm not trying to get on a soap box and bitch. I want you to understand that I have seen so many hack jobs done that it makes me cringe. Have you ever seen a body drop done with no welding, not a one tack weld or anything?? I spent a month redoing a 5 1/2 bd on an s10 becuase they didn't know how to weld, they used JB weld and epoxy glue to hold it all together. How the hell it stayed together as well as it did I don't know. People spend a lot of money to modify their vehicles lowereing and bagging them to only fuck it up when they don't think things through and plan stuff in advance or thoroughly research. Look at what Seth has done to his truck, he's done a wonderful job, I have contacted him several times about how he did this, or how he did that all for the simple fact I have never done a torsion bar vehicle before. Its not that I have no clue but these are new waters for me and it never hurts to ask questions.

I for one am going to try my best at finding out if these things are really what happens if the set up (reverse 4link) is done properly, IF and when something does happen like this I will find out what causes it and try to fix it. IF it just won't work the way it should well I guess then I will go back to the traditional way of forward 4 link and say I gave it a shot.


'nuff said

well man i appreciate everything you just mentioned!! like i bought this truck and i expect to four link it and notch it next year, as well as cut my inner fenders and clean everything up a bit, i just wanna drive it for this season...lol., and the wheels on it now look like flowers, lol so i need new ones and i was thinking if ill be stepping up my wheels next year why not just get big ones now and make them work...and i was also thinking, how easy is it to put disk brakes on the back?? i noe i wanted to with my mazda but now that i have a toyota is there any kind of kit or something to do the swap??

Yeah there is a kit but its expensive

I think Rodney had something he was trying to get LC Engineering to buy from him that is a disc brake swap.

Only other option is swap in a IRS setup from a celica or supra.


Sorry about the above post, it was little long, LOL.

here is that pic i said i would post...its a three link with hymes for side to side. i cut the tops of the fenders so i could drag it. im gonna start tubbing new wells in a couple weeks. the gas tank is in the stock location only it had to be moved up a couple of inches so it doesnt drag on the ground.

Don't be ghetto, link it.