New to B's 86/2000 need help

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New to B's 86/2000 need help
Jakesktm avatar
Jakesktm
+1y
I picked up an '86 B2000. The (manual) transmission is out and the carb is bad.

I have some money to throw at this project since I got it dirt cheap. What is the easiest, most direct swap to upgrade to EFI and a compatible (manual) drivetrain?

I would like to do both engine and trans at the same time.

The swap should also be obtainable (i.e. NOT hard to source).

Thanks in advance :)
mazdatweaker_2 avatar
mazdatweaker_2
+1y
A lot of people have done a FE3 swap from a Kia. There are threads on this board and others but it isn't a drop in swap; any FI swap needs 40-55 psi fuel pressure on the fuel rail so that needs to be upgraded too. The KIA swap can use the stock transmission but maybe you would use a KIA transmission too.
davoomster avatar
davoomster
+1y
Just keep it stock...don't mess with it...you'll be glad you did.
davoomster avatar
davoomster
+1y
My 86 Mazda B2000 just cuts out on me. Replacing ignition coil tomorrow.
mazdatweaker_2 avatar
mazdatweaker_2
+1y
You might want to check the ignition switch before you go to the expense of a coil. There are moving parts in the electrical part of the switch that can go bad over time and cause the switch to get flaky.
Cusser avatar
Cusser
+1y
"You might want to check the ignition switch before you go to the expense of a coil. There are moving parts in the electrical part of the switch that can go bad over time and cause the switch to get flaky."

See above when it cuts out (leave key in "run" position). Test when it's inoperable using test light or DC voltmeter. should have positive voltage at coil positive terminal when the switch is in the "run" position. If dash warning lights, maybe even radio, do not stay on when truck stalls out, then suspect electrical part of the ignition switch; these and the hydraulics are weak spots on these trucks as they age.

Just because the truck cranks/spins the engine every time does NOT mean that the run circuit is OK.
Post was last edited on Jun 13, 2017 02:59. Edited 1 time.
davoomster avatar
davoomster
+1y
I just replaced my ignition switch. It worked.
Cusser avatar
Cusser
+1y
Great.

We all learn from others' experiences.
Post was last edited on Jun 13, 2017 03:02. Edited 1 time.
Jakesktm avatar
Jakesktm
+1y
So - the FE swap requires sourcing a 15+ year old donor vehicle motor and transmission and ECU? I feel like that is a long way to go just for obtaining FI. Is the stock motor and transmission that junky? or is it the stock core parts good enough for rebuilding and running as long as possible? This truck is primarily a "ranch truck" for running errands around town and transporting items for home and yard improvement projects. I have no intentions of restoring or tricking it out. I just want a truck I can get in at any moment and run to home depot or the local nursery. I also need it to pass California Smog every other year.
mazdatweaker_2 avatar
mazdatweaker_2
+1y
I think you are going to be further ahead repairing what you have than in trying to do all that necessary to upgrade to FI. Even though you indicate that the transmission is "out" on your truck maybe all that is wrong is that the master and slave cylinders are not building pressure enough to disconnect the clutch. If you still have everything intact on your engine, and none of the emission systems have been tampered with, you can get the truck to pass California emissions. If you put a Weber on it, you likely won't pass.