spherical bearing upper ball joint

Ive been racking my brain trying to figure a way to key slot the spindle, and then the shaft that i make that fits into the spindle, so that it cannot spin at all, but i havent been able to come up with any plausable ways to do it, that are relatively easy.  You could allways, insert the bolt, tapered shaft, or whatever into its hole in the spindle, then cross drill it and pin it in place so it cannot spin, and stays in place. We do that to some of the industrial equipment that I machine parts for at the shop, they have been doing that for years apparently, they dont use castle nuts or cotter keys.  Taylor

but wouldnt a steering stop on the lower arm effectivley accomplish the same thing with little modification? my other concern is would the stud (tapered or a grade 8 bolt) be strong enough welded to the sleeve for the bearing?

If its not tight then it could loosen up with time not to mention its just not as strong loose as it is when its tight. Instead of drilling though and using a dowel or roll pin why not drill and tap the side of the spindle for a set screw, similar to that of aftermarket steering shaft when you first install them. Just drill though into the tapered shaft enough to engage the set screw and lock the tapered shaft in place. Use locktite to keep it from backing out.

---------------------------------------------Originally posted by UnusualFabricationIf its not tight then it could loosen up with time not to mention its just not as strong loose as it is when its tight. Instead of drilling though and using a dowel or roll pin why not drill and tap the side of the spindle for a set screw, similar to that of aftermarket steering shaft when you first install them. Just drill though into the tapered shaft enough to engage the set screw and lock the tapered shaft in place. Use locktite to keep it from backing out.--------------------------------------------- The only issue i see with doing a set screw type, would be aluminum spindles.  Like mine for my ram are aluminum, and drilling and tapping that shitty pot aluminum probably wont give really good threads that i would want to use to hold it in place. I took an old spindle off the shelf today, and tried some things, and im really liking the drilling the hold through the side, and using a rollpin.  I machined a shaft to fit tightly into the spindle, that had a bearing cup welded onto the top of it, then tightened it into the spindle,  and drilled a 3/8 hole through it, and tapped a roll pin in place, and it auctually works really well.  I tapped the pin back out to see how easy it would all dissassemble and it was still good.  This also let me take the bearing cup back out, and put the stock control arm back in the tapered hole, and it snugged down just fine again like stock. Im probably going to build me a set of these right now and see how i like them, test them through the summer and maybee start selling kits like this....   Taylor

I see what your saying Tayor but the taper is still what would hold the shaft in place. The set screw would only be there to keep the taper from twisting horizontally. With a .375" hole all the way though the spindle ear and tapered shaft what kind of material is left on each piece?

well, this was on a ram spindle, so obviously its larger than a mini , but on mine it still had 1/4 material on each side of the shaft.  On a mini, i would probably only use a 3/16 or 1/4 shaft.  On the spindle it self, i had all sorts of room left on every side of the hole. Either way, roll pin or set screw, it will hold it in place no problem.  My personl preference is the roll pin however.   Taylor

That's more than enough material I would think. Sounds like it could work very well actually.

Edited: 1/9/2010 8:16:03 AM by e10pvmt

So your reffering to drilling a hole all the way through the spindle and having a hole in the tapered shaft to line up a putting a pin all the way through? I understand chris's idea of the set screw on a flat spot in the shaft. I hate to keep beating a dead horse but what is your guys view on a steering stop on the lower arm? And is the cup welded to a tapered shaft strong enough on its own? I would think if i tighten the shaft/cup assembly and use the cotter pin just like i was installing the factory ball joint and had steering stops to limit the steering to the capabilities of the bearing i would be ok.....right? I cant wait through the summer....i'm lookin to do something here shortly

You could do it just like kingpins in solid front axle  suspensions.   

Taylor.....any updates?