K
Whats been keeping me from posting pics
erock805
+1y
The duece is going through some refinements. I had two new batterys go away. It now has a 250 amp alternator and two yellow tops. I have two amps that need to be replaced (causing the draw issue that crushed the batterys). I also want to re do the door pins and catches. I have em, just havent been motivated to try it. Looks like a hairy job.
Then the arms....I cant wait to see how good it looks with them. It made a huge difference on Todds...im pumped.
Oh and one more thing.....new project
The engine didnt come with it. However it is a 64 short bed big window
Someone had already moved the front cross member up.... so I did a little cuttin on the rear crossmemeber and it lays out.
LOWBOY, will back half it and make it safe! Goin cheap but safe on this one, built with stuff I have around...pretty much...
Then the arms....I cant wait to see how good it looks with them. It made a huge difference on Todds...im pumped.
Oh and one more thing.....new project
The engine didnt come with it. However it is a 64 short bed big window
Someone had already moved the front cross member up.... so I did a little cuttin on the rear crossmemeber and it lays out.
LOWBOY, will back half it and make it safe! Goin cheap but safe on this one, built with stuff I have around...pretty much...
dropd80s
+1y
pimp
lockone
+1y
Looks good. We used to have a '66 years ago.
someotherguy
+1y
Cool little truck but you shoulda scored the Carryall he had in the background. Love those 60-66 trucks; I used to do a used parts biz for them back in the mid to late 80's. My personal rides included a '63 Suburban, '61 Suburban, '66 panel, '61 short fleet, and '61 short step. obviously my fave year is '61...
Anyway back to your door pins on the '94, really isn't a big deal. If you want to one-man it, just roll down the windows, wrap a thick towel around the frontmost point of the window opening and use a strap around that to hang the door from your engine hoist. The pins are easy to tap out with a ball peen hammer, then use a punch to drive out the old bushings, and any decent flat tool (I use an old small tire iron) to help tap the new ones in. Usually the biggest problem is the hole in the top hinge, door side, gets elongated from the door hanging, and since there's no bushing there - it still lets the door sag a little even with new bushings/pins. My "hack" for fixing this is to install the new parts, grind a little spot and clamp ground onto the hinge itself, and run a very small weld from the pin to the hinge while still supporting the door from the rear to take the slack out. Don't weld too much because if you ever need to remove the door for replacement or whatever, you don't have any room in there to grind the weld out.
Here's an example of what I mean by holding it up with the hoist,
Richard
Anyway back to your door pins on the '94, really isn't a big deal. If you want to one-man it, just roll down the windows, wrap a thick towel around the frontmost point of the window opening and use a strap around that to hang the door from your engine hoist. The pins are easy to tap out with a ball peen hammer, then use a punch to drive out the old bushings, and any decent flat tool (I use an old small tire iron) to help tap the new ones in. Usually the biggest problem is the hole in the top hinge, door side, gets elongated from the door hanging, and since there's no bushing there - it still lets the door sag a little even with new bushings/pins. My "hack" for fixing this is to install the new parts, grind a little spot and clamp ground onto the hinge itself, and run a very small weld from the pin to the hinge while still supporting the door from the rear to take the slack out. Don't weld too much because if you ever need to remove the door for replacement or whatever, you don't have any room in there to grind the weld out.
Here's an example of what I mean by holding it up with the hoist,
Richard