ryan3500
+1y
hi have a 90 model fullsize chevy (SWB) i want to notch it soon just wondering the best way to do it on a c section chassis. can it just be welded to the top of the chassis (will it be strong enough?) also where do you posistion it in relation to the axle. thanks
suckafree
+1y
Edited: 9/30/2007 9:58:06 PM by suckafree
I prefer homemade 3 piece notch's personally, saves time, material and money. Cut your desired notch size on 35* angles using your desired size box tubing in 3/16(.187) weld them together. Mark the center of the top of the notch and line it up with the center of the rear end. cut into the frame and slide it in. Weld it. Cut out the stock frame section. Box in the the sides and front and rear of notch with plate steel.
I prefer homemade 3 piece notch's personally, saves time, material and money. Cut your desired notch size on 35* angles using your desired size box tubing in 3/16(.187) weld them together. Mark the center of the top of the notch and line it up with the center of the rear end. cut into the frame and slide it in. Weld it. Cut out the stock frame section. Box in the the sides and front and rear of notch with plate steel.
BioMax
+1y
Originally posted by suckafree
using your desired size box tubing in 3/16(.187)
I can always rely on minitruckers to overkill the shit out of everything....120 is PLENTY!
Buying a notch kit is probably the easiest, but by no means the cheapest. You would just need to plate the sides of the frame on both the inside and the outside. The only difference is that you wouldn't weld down the non-existent inside frame, only across the bottom.
As for centering the notch over the rearend, that depends on what you expect the final suspesnsion design to do. If you run short bars, then the rearend will move front to back more and will require you to spend more time calculating out proper notch placement. But if you run long bars, the rearend won't move as much and you can just center the notch over the rearend.
using your desired size box tubing in 3/16(.187)
I can always rely on minitruckers to overkill the shit out of everything....120 is PLENTY!
Buying a notch kit is probably the easiest, but by no means the cheapest. You would just need to plate the sides of the frame on both the inside and the outside. The only difference is that you wouldn't weld down the non-existent inside frame, only across the bottom.
As for centering the notch over the rearend, that depends on what you expect the final suspesnsion design to do. If you run short bars, then the rearend will move front to back more and will require you to spend more time calculating out proper notch placement. But if you run long bars, the rearend won't move as much and you can just center the notch over the rearend.
suckafree
+1y
Edited: 10/1/2007 10:44:30 AM by suckafree
Originally posted by BioMax
Originally posted by suckafree
using your desired size box tubing in 3/16(.187)
I can always rely on minitruckers to overkill the shit out of everything...very true...I did a little over kill on this....2x2 .250 box tube with the joint braced with .125 plate....good point on the bars max, that is why you have your own section :BOWDOWN:
Originally posted by BioMax
Originally posted by suckafree
using your desired size box tubing in 3/16(.187)
I can always rely on minitruckers to overkill the shit out of everything...very true...I did a little over kill on this....2x2 .250 box tube with the joint braced with .125 plate....good point on the bars max, that is why you have your own section :BOWDOWN:
unusualfabrication
+1y
I build my notches out of "Mega Blocks", my kid has extras laying around, lol!
mindlissmetalfab
+1y
2x4 notches work real nice on the 88-98 half tons. I usually use 3/16 wall but theres no real need to like max said 1/8 is probably fine. When it comes to install they are alot easier to do, and quicker. Especially if you are working by yourself.
standardbyker88
+1y
What about on a c notch. c frame. and boxed frame. i have one of each. weld in half a tube and plate the c frame?
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