old school s-10 question?

a friend of mine just got a old school s-10 with a 4.3L. and he want to lay frame on 20s all they way around. so my question is what all do we need to do to make it lay? we is going to buy up and lower arm, so will i still need to notch the frame for rods? and i know u got to tub the fire wall. and some pics would be nice under the hood to see what all we need to take out!

to lay the rear is easy so ill just talk about the front.

youll NEED:
drop-spindles
tub firewall
modify a/c box
move clutch master (if a stick)
7" brake booster
loose inner fenders

tubular control arms are not necessary but make it go together a bit easier, but the factory lowers can be modded to clear.
--DO NOT BUY DROPPED CONTROL ARMS FOR COIL SPRINGS--

they will not work how you think, only rub the hell out of the bag and not let you lay out.

You will also have to notch for the tie rods. its easy, just some round tubing and welding.

yeah i know aboutthe 2 inch drop spindles, tub the fire wall, the ac does not work in it so we are going to take that all out. i think its a sick so what the deal on clutch master where u move it to? and old the old school s-10 i thought they had the 7 brake booster ?

i've seen a old body style lay frame on 20s with out tubbing the fire wall. they had to section the heater box though. you'll have to notch the frame on the passenger side for the tie rod. also to lay frame i don't think you'll have to move the clutch master. if you want to bodydrop it then that's when you open the big can of worms. what size tire are you going to run? you will need drop spindals for sure. in the rear i would say the suicide doors wishbone link set up is pretty sweet. i had it on my last bagged and bodydropped s-10. and i just bought another one for my new s-10. even when i bodydropped my old one i didn't have to touch the brake booster. if you have anymore questions just ask. hope that helps.

laying frame on 20s without tubbing

if you don't believe me that's fine. i've seen it done.

ive seen ppl move the cab back and inch or so so they wont have to tub the firewall. it'll also center up the wheel in the opening while laid out.

SOME of the older s-10s had a 9" booster as opposed to the 11"(i think) that most have. a 9" will get you by, but theres no way to buy one at a parts store. if you ask for a specific size booster at a parts store, they'll look at you retarded like and give you what the computer tells them to.

itll be easier just to buy one off ebay for $100.

the clutch master will be hella close, itd be better to move it so you wont rick ripping it off the firewall while railing. most guys move it up and towards the center as muchg as possible w/o binding the linkage. ive also seen them recessed into the firewall a little bit and angled up in the front. its all about how much clearance you want.

thanks guys every lil bit helps!

Mine hit the firewall on 17s. 20s with no tubs. I'll believe it when I see it. Unless the cab is moved back, but even then, I dont think you'd get enough to lay on 20s out of that.

One thing not mentioned..if you stick with stock arms you will have to pie cut the upper arm or the balljoints will bind up.