well i have the 135 now and i think im going to by a 175 as well. I plan on using the 135 for tacking sheet and figured id use the 175 when i decide to tackle the thick stuff.im going to try some joints tomorrow and ill post them up on here. . The holes were from the heat being to high but I think playing around with it a bunch more and ill get it down
I noticed you are in Vancouver. Cold metal will not weld very good. Keep your metal stored in a warm room or preheat it if you need to. Like everyone said. Practice, practice, practice.
Hes in Vancouver WA, not Canada.
push or pull......doesnt matter...its how you control your puddle.Figure eights,circles,u's all depend on ppls preference. The type of welding you are doing is called SHORT CIRCUIT TRANSFER. Unlike globular transfer (FCAW) the SCT method requires taking small steps and digging into the base metal.
EG. In the flat position whether pushing or pulling you want to achieve a dig & stack dig & stack method.When you move ahead(dig)then come back (stack) it allows the puddle enuff time to cool so you may stack the filler wire on top of itself which you want to look like row of dimes laying on each other. The spacing between each ridge should be no larger than the width of your weld bead.The closer the ridges the stronger the weld and less chance of undecut which leads to weld failure.
In the flat position With the correct settings my wrist moves left and right.
If you were looking at the joint in front of you and it was going from left to right.Hold your gun 90 degrees to the joint and level with the steel.Your nozzle should be pointing straight down into the joint,now twist left or right 15 degress.Using my right hand my thumb is now pointing at 10 o'clock ,pull trigger and establish arc then twist the wrist bringing my thumb down to 9 o'clock to dig ahead then back to 10 o'clock to stack.