wireing 2 opitma battery's

im going to have one battery for the truck and one for my 2 air zenit's,do i go from 1 battery to the other battery?positive to positive,and negative to nagative.please help.

I think it was that and that you put the positive cable on one battery and the negative on the other.

i ran positive to positive negaitive to negative and u can get a good isolater/relay from stinger to use in between them batterries been workin great for me

Originally posted by toying02

what relay is it from stinger

i ran positive to positive negaitive to negative and u can get a good isolater/relay from stinger to use in between them batterries been workin great for me

Originally posted by HackedUpHonda



I think it was that and that you put the positive cable on one battery and the negative on the other.don't do this unless you want to run 24V. running the batteries in series like this will bump the voltage. if you want to remain at 12 run it in paralell. positive to posotive.

Edited: 9/5/2006 6:26:52 AM by loudciv

Originally posted by goinglow



positive to positive, and ground the negatives seperately to the frame or you'll cause a ground loop....ALWAYS make sure your grounds are as short as possible...

While you're at it, just do the big 3 upgrade, it helps with everything, 4gauge should be fine...-Battery positive to alternator-Battery negative to chassis-Engine block to chassis

what is this "ground loop". i just redid everything & i'm having some issues. i have the positives AND negatives connected in between batteries? i have each battery gounded out w/ a short cable & another cable connecting them together...

Edited: 9/5/2006 6:44:03 AM by RedHJedi

Edited: 9/5/2006 6:43:04 AM by RedHJedi

Ground loops usually cause bad noise from having too many high draw items grounded in various places in the vehicle. They make isolators for it, that supress most of the noise. I had to lengthen my grounds a bit for a few items and use a ground distribution block for some of my stuff. I'm sure there's a very technical explaination, but that's my redneckversion.

Dave Latest Craze

ok here is how you do it first here is the link for the isolator by stinger
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/STINGER-SR80-HIGH-CURRENT-RELAY-ISOLATOR-4-DUAL-BATTERY_W0QQitemZ140025268687QQihZ004QQcategoryZ38636QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
just in case it is item #140025268687
now follow the instructions now you can go to auto zone and get a start relay i have the part number at the house when i go home ill get it for ya. the one from autozone is like 9 dollars the stinger will be like 20 . they both work the same
if you get the stinger follow the instuctions if you get the one from autozone let me know and ill walk ya though it.
THERE SHOULDNT BE A WIRE COMING FROM YOUR PRIMARY BATTERY NEG POST TO YOUR SECONDARY NEG POST . if you have pos to pos and neg to neg you just created a 24 volt system and could fry anythin that runs 12v. you should have pos to pos and neg to chasis. any questions i can simplify.

Then do you hook all of your acc to just one battery? Or is it best to run the vehicle off of one and the acc of the other?

Originally posted by untamedprez

. if you have pos to pos and neg to neg you just created a 24 volt system and could fry anythin that runs 12v. you should have pos to pos and neg to chasis. any questions i can simplify.this is not true. in order to get 24V the cable between the batteries would have to connect the positive on one battery to the negative on the other battery.