Question for Andy(periportfd)

gumps is -1 on the tranny, -5 in hte mid shaft +8 on the rear shaft and +1 on the rear flange( i think hell i cant rmember)

another thing, i havent welded up my upper 4-link bars yet so i could make my pinion angle -4. so if i raise my carrier bushing to make my new measurements, tranny-5,first shaft-2,second shaft-1 and change my pinion angle to -4, would this work?

the tranny output and the rear end pinion yoke need to be parallel, so -5 tranny, then -5 rear end. but 1 degree of difference you probably will not notice.

Originally posted by bdroppeddak



yea james, if you take your time after talking to a knowledgable person about it

exactly, thanks cris. yeah its better to get a little help before you start doing it so you don't have to change it a million times

Sorry, I guess that's why I'm not a fireman.
But your in good hands with Cris. Can you give me the lengths of each shaft? That would help in determining how much to raise or lower your components.

ok, the first shaft is 27 and 3/4 from the welded ujoint on each end. The second is 39 and 1/2 from the welded ujoint on each end. The carrier is 23 and 1/4, from the welded ujoint to the center of the carrier, on the first shaft.

OK let me draw up a sketch. I guess I should have told you exactly what to measure. The center of the ujoint to carrier center. The distance the first shaft goes threw the carrier. The center of rear ujoint on slip yoke to center of ujoint on rear end. It probably won't matter a bunch but that would be better.

So this would be pretty accurate?

Edited: 4/4/2006 1:53:37 PM by periportfd

Also, where your angle measurements taken with the vehicle on a level surface or slanted. The measurements will be just as accurate since they will all be off the same, relative to the level. The problem is if I suggest moving say your tranny angle up it won't be a good idea if it's actually 5 degrees up when level because your hood may interfere and it isn't a good idea having tranny and engine oil forced to the front or back of the pan. Assuming these angles are from level ground, my first suggestion would be to see how much of a tranny spacer you would need and if you have room to get the motor closer to level (0 degrees) It isn't neccesary to have a motor completely level, but in your case it looks like it will help you in the end.....pun intended.

Originally posted by bdroppeddak



this is how mine is, and i have no vibrations (in my fullsize chevy) tranny at -2 degrees, 1st shaft at 0 (2 degree working angle at the first u joint), then the rear shaft slopes at about +7 degrees layed out, so that gives me a decent working angle at the 2nd u joint, then the rear pinion yoke is at +2 degrees, giving me a working angle of +9 degrees or less depending on ride height.

Cris, I didn't really read your whole post till now. Your saying you have a max working angle of 9 if you drove it on the ground right? I hope at ride height this is reduced by 6 or more bout a 3 degree working angle at the rear.