Here's one for all you electrical experts!!!!

Okay, so i am having problems with my AVS switchbox. When i hit the pancake up switch only the left side of the truck goes up, then i have to do the right front and right rear seperately. I have the switchbox on a 15 amp fuse right now. I used to have it on a 10 amp fuse and it worked perfectly fine. But now if i put a 10 amp fuse in, it pops it.

The other wierd thing is that when i am driving, when the rpm's are about 2000-2500 and i hit the pancake up button, the whole truck goes up.(not just the left side). Can anybody figure out what is going on here??? Does this mean that i need a high output alternater??? I have a yellow top optima. And when i am parked, and i rev the engine up to about 2000 rpms, and hit the pancake up switch, the whole truck goes up. PLEASE....ANY HELP WILL BE GREATLY APPRECIATED!!!!

sounds like you have a short somewhere maybe

like eric said, check your power wires for solid connections. if you have one of the plastic fuse holders check the terminals, and also wherever you have the power wire tapped into car. if nothing else is effected but the switchbox then it has to be wiring. if it were your alternator or battery then your vehicle wouldnt start, comps wouldnt run, light wouldnt work, etc. to simplify listen to ^^^^eric lol.

lol........seen this a few times in the past. Here's your problem:

The power and ground leads on your switch box and or valves are/is too small. Use a 10 or 12 gauge wire from the swith box to the valves and a 10 gague power and ground to the swithc box itself.

Here's what happens........as it sits now, when your vehicle isn't running there's only about 12.2-12.5 volts going into your electrical system via the battery. When your vehicle is running you have more voltage (14.4 nominal). With too small of power and ground leads, the current (electricity) is struggling to get through the power and ground connections w the key off. when the engine is running and the alternator is producing voltage the amps form the alternator create a "pushing force" forcing the current through the leads and thus, why your switch box functions properly at certain rpm's (the alternator is at peak at those rpm's and hence pushing more current through the connections.

Upgrade your wiring and you'll be fine.

ITs called an intermittent open or intermittent short they can be a beotch

To me it sounds like its a weak ground or a weak power sorce. Is that the box that uses the relay box? If so I would put money on a weak ground