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Frame Tables???
smallz
+1y
Hey what are you guys using to make frame tables? Ive been told the best way to go is to get a 1" thick plate and make a table with it, is that a good idea or no? Let me know what you guys have used or use? Becuase im looking to build a frame but dont have any flat surfaces for it.
olskoolpup
+1y
1" thick plate will be rediculously heavy and expensive, and not big enough.
there are a couple plans on this site in forums that show well built, inexpensive tables.
most are made from like 1.5"x1.5" .125 wall box tubing. youd want it at least as long as your current frame, and roughly 2-3' wider.
the top doesnt necessarily have to have a full cover, a lot run open cross braces and you can weld frame mounts directly onto the cross braces.
kinda sounds complex, but if you see a pic its pretty self explanatory.
there are a couple plans on this site in forums that show well built, inexpensive tables.
most are made from like 1.5"x1.5" .125 wall box tubing. youd want it at least as long as your current frame, and roughly 2-3' wider.
the top doesnt necessarily have to have a full cover, a lot run open cross braces and you can weld frame mounts directly onto the cross braces.
kinda sounds complex, but if you see a pic its pretty self explanatory.
SSM-Webmaster
+1y
I want to see some pics
DawgsledMazda
+1y
I used 2x2x1/4 wall and made mine 12 feet by 4&1/2 feet. no flat top so nothing accumulates on top. beams that go across that slide end to end so I can adjust the length to whatever I need.
plus it has rollers so I can move it and adjustable screw in legs to level it. cost about 400 in materials 2 years ago.
plus it has rollers so I can move it and adjustable screw in legs to level it. cost about 400 in materials 2 years ago.
overkillfabshop
+1y
mike, got any pix of your frame jig?
railin93
+1y
ive seen some that were 3/4" cold rooled sheet tops with I-beam bracing and 2x2x3/16" legs with levelers and caster slots if you wanted to move it...i'd build mine like 12'x4 1/2' i guess...should be big enough to tack stuff to or drop measurements for chalk lines and such without having to find something to get a level for the tables with openings in them.
madmike
+1y
here are a few quick plans from 3 diff peeps on the forums, one is mike white, the one is from sadistic iron and i cant remember the third but here they go
chassis table 1
Easiest way I've found to make a jig is really not easy.... but it's adjustable .... and simple as your going to find
Take 1 1/2 tubing cut 8 legs 48 " long ....take 8 pieces of 2x2 plate and drill a hole and weld a nut on ... use like a 1/2 bolt for stability....... weld the plate to the bottom of the legs this will make your legs adjustable to level the jig....
Take 2x2 1/8" wall square tubing cut 2 sections 20 feet long weld your legs on every 5 ft.... 4 legs per side..make sure you GUSSET the legs so they dont move
you now have two runners cut 8 pieces of 2x2 24" long weld them to the inside of your runners.... this will be your cross sections.... take 4 pieces of 2 1/2 wide C Channel36" wide drill 3 holes PER side and weld a nut to each hole so you can run a bolt thru and tighten it to your 2x2 cross beams.....
You now can adjust height to level and width for your specific frame and you can now square it.... make 2 pieces of 2x2 upprights for your frame horn to sit on.... make these adjustable too if you want ....
there are other ways to do this but I've seen this one built and used at a dirt track shop near my home in Pearl River LA and he turns out some BAD ASS Chassis.... he has even built a couple street rod tube chassis on the same jig.......
Adapt your jig to your needs such as IRS ....make the cross beams sit in the area of the IRS or weld in other supports that are removable....
approx. 57 feet of 2x2 .125 wall square tubing
34 feet of 1 1/2 tubing (.083 wall)
13 feet of 2 1/2 wide c channel
gussets
chassis table 2
ok first measure your wheel base add an extra 6 ft in length for body panels and 2ft in width for body and wheels. start by making a table with at lease 3-4 ft gap between legs. so for a 24 ft table youll have 6-8 legs on each side. make the legs to a comfortable height to work on your project.
a cross member for each leg is needed for stability. you can sheet the top of the jig but anything less than half and inch will bend between cross members. i left mine open for welding purposes depends on you anyother ? just ask
chassis table 3
it was easy to build, its 12 feet by 4 feet made of 2x2x1/4 tube. you need 4 12 ft tubes, and 4- 4 ft tubes and 4- 3ft tubes. the 4 ft ones go across the top and bottom and the 3 ft ones go up and down on the sides. I can take a pic to show you if you like
Michael White
Barnyard Customs
125 Gumbo dr.
Rockwall Texas 75032
972-722-5435
chassis table 1
Easiest way I've found to make a jig is really not easy.... but it's adjustable .... and simple as your going to find
Take 1 1/2 tubing cut 8 legs 48 " long ....take 8 pieces of 2x2 plate and drill a hole and weld a nut on ... use like a 1/2 bolt for stability....... weld the plate to the bottom of the legs this will make your legs adjustable to level the jig....
Take 2x2 1/8" wall square tubing cut 2 sections 20 feet long weld your legs on every 5 ft.... 4 legs per side..make sure you GUSSET the legs so they dont move
you now have two runners cut 8 pieces of 2x2 24" long weld them to the inside of your runners.... this will be your cross sections.... take 4 pieces of 2 1/2 wide C Channel36" wide drill 3 holes PER side and weld a nut to each hole so you can run a bolt thru and tighten it to your 2x2 cross beams.....
You now can adjust height to level and width for your specific frame and you can now square it.... make 2 pieces of 2x2 upprights for your frame horn to sit on.... make these adjustable too if you want ....
there are other ways to do this but I've seen this one built and used at a dirt track shop near my home in Pearl River LA and he turns out some BAD ASS Chassis.... he has even built a couple street rod tube chassis on the same jig.......
Adapt your jig to your needs such as IRS ....make the cross beams sit in the area of the IRS or weld in other supports that are removable....
approx. 57 feet of 2x2 .125 wall square tubing
34 feet of 1 1/2 tubing (.083 wall)
13 feet of 2 1/2 wide c channel
gussets
chassis table 2
ok first measure your wheel base add an extra 6 ft in length for body panels and 2ft in width for body and wheels. start by making a table with at lease 3-4 ft gap between legs. so for a 24 ft table youll have 6-8 legs on each side. make the legs to a comfortable height to work on your project.
a cross member for each leg is needed for stability. you can sheet the top of the jig but anything less than half and inch will bend between cross members. i left mine open for welding purposes depends on you anyother ? just ask
chassis table 3
it was easy to build, its 12 feet by 4 feet made of 2x2x1/4 tube. you need 4 12 ft tubes, and 4- 4 ft tubes and 4- 3ft tubes. the 4 ft ones go across the top and bottom and the 3 ft ones go up and down on the sides. I can take a pic to show you if you like
Michael White
Barnyard Customs
125 Gumbo dr.
Rockwall Texas 75032
972-722-5435
DawgsledMazda
+1y
yes I have pics, email me at barnyard-customs@sbcglobal.net and ill send ya pics of it.
I found that a table with an open top and sides it much easier to build on than just a flat sheet of steel.
I found that a table with an open top and sides it much easier to build on than just a flat sheet of steel.
mattconrad
+1y
seeing pics of this here would be great as i would like to see also