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Rear Shackle Bushes

Last Updated: Feb 24, 2015
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1. Jenko
2. NZ
3. 7 Iron
4. 1997
5. 2200
6. Extended Cab
7. Rear shackle bush replacement

Alrighty, I needed to do my rear shackle bushes so I figure, why not a write up as well (as there isn't one currently I think).

Need/want:
If you NEED to replace you may not care too much about what you use, so use rubber, it's cheaper. BUY SOME nolathane anyway.
If you WANT to... use nolathane, it's awesome stuff. Check it out online. BUY SOME.

Tools:
21mm socket & ratchet
powerbar (maybe)
pry bar/crow bar
hammer
rubber mallet (not essential)
3 bourbon & colas (premix, you don't want to mix with dirty hands)
tube/rod to punch out existing bushes
jack (go on, get a trolley jack)
melodic death metal (in flames is my recommendation)
axle stands
ear muffs

Step 1:
Drink first bourbon, it'll put you in a good mood as you're about to beat stubborn parts and get angry.
Step 1.2: Turn off phone... you never get rung? you will when you're under the truck.
Turn on stereo, turn to 7

Step 2:
Chock front wheels and jack up back of vehicle (under diff housing) quite high so that you have full suspension travel + some.
Use axle stands to hold up FRAME of truck (lets you alter load on suspension with jack)

Step 3:
Take nuts off side of shackle, remove plate.

Step 4:
Turn stereo to 11, put on ear muffs.
Suspension should be more or less at full extension, piss about with it till it has little/no load on shackle.
Thread nuts back to end of shackle pins and give em a bash with the hammer, use pry bar to put constant tension in the direction of where you're hitting them (center of vehicle) and hit it rapidly, just keep on going, if you have a slide hammer, I hate you, use that!

Step 5:
Pry/pull/bash/poke out the old bushes.

Step 6:
Dance a viking victory dance. (because your death metal comes from the land of the vikings and you are glad I recommended In Flames)

Step 7:
Drink victory bourbon.

Step 8:
Clean everything (victory bourbon keeps you happy while becoming angry cleaning)

Step 9:
Turn stereo to 8.5
Grease new bushes, inside and either end, DON'T grease the "pressed" surfaces aka outside of bush, grease shackle pins.

Step 10:
Push/tap/bash bushes in with fingers/rubber mallet.

Step 11:
Put thing you bashed out and cleaned/greased back in.
You'll need to bash that too. But you like bashing.

Step 12:
Nuts.washers. Tighten.
If you haven't done the other side at the same time. Repeat steps 3-12 (you might need 4 bourbons)

Step 13:
Raise everything back up, take out axle stands, lower everything.

Step 14:
Turn stereo back to 11.
Dance victory dance, drink another victory bourbon, sacrifice something in my name.
Tell neighbor to shut it or you'll sacrifice him too.
Throw old bushes into neighbors yard.

Enjoy your new bushes!
Bushes and a bourbon:

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Nuts off, plate off
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Out! Taken while dancing.
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Death to rubber!
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In you go dearies!
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Done!!!!!!!!
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Credits

Created By: jenko

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Cusser   +1y
Oh, I think I "get" it !!! This for replacement of the rear leaf spring bushings.

1. So you need one pack of those Nolathane 47201 and one pack of the Nolothane 47027 to do both sides?

2. Where did you buy those bushings, and did you not like rubber ones?

3. Is this pretty straightforward, like you don't need a press, or had too much trouble re-installing them?
Post was last edited on Jan 28, 2012 04:01. This post has been edited 1 times.
SilentDawn   +1y
Holy crap! someone found a full set that FITS!?

Last time I did leaf spring and shackle bushings I had to make one set of them from old VW strut bushings cut up to fit around the shackle stud!! (worked great, though!)

Its about time we have a full set that fits!!

Also, for removing the old ones..If you have a lot of trouble, I sometimes burn them out.
axel breaker earl   +1y


LOL, I like the way you think Jenko!

Nice write up.......NZ style!
emjay   +1y
nicely written Jenko, something that I found helps instead of using the jack under the diff is to put jack stands on both the frame AND the axle, and to use a scissor jack in between the frame and the leaves. When I adjusted the spacing this way, the shackle with bolts came out a lot easier with less pounding.
Cusser   +1y


Hey, not so fast. I can't find where Nolathane sells outside of Australia and New Zealand, where about 153 people live !!! So where to get in the USA ???

I went on the Nolathane site and they list all three bushings parts AND their dimensions for the B2200 leaf springs:
#47260 front end of leaf spring
#47201 rear end of leaf spring
#47027 shackle (rear)

I couldn't find but one listing in Moog (K9948) but don't know which one this fits or what its dimensions are (thanks, Moog !!!).

JimEllismazdaparts.com shows all three:
387428330 front end of leaf spring
UB4028333 rear end of leaf spring
UB3928333 shackle (rear)
about $6.50 each but if going factory, I'd deal with Dan Atkins here ( )
midnightmike   +1y
ebay is one place to get them, they also have strut rod bushings which are a plus

im going to do some searching to see what other bushings have the same dimensions so we can make them fit our truck
ulrich   +1y
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I use bushings from this vendor. They fit fine. Not sure if this item is the same ones.

The front, leaf bushings I got from RockAuto.com

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Great write up. My shackle bolts had heavy rust. I had to use C clamps to force them out, and course sand paper to clean them up.
jenko   +1y
Emjay, that's a genius idea!
Cusser, yup, pack comes with enough for both sides.
Nolathane > rubber (IMO)
I got them off a friend who does suspension, made in Australia widely available here, they shouldn't have a problem sending you some
I pulled them out by hand mostly, with your salting of roads you may have more corrosion which has expanded and stuck the bush in there, the lower joint isn't fully closed so you can get a screwdriver in and force it open if you need too. Or if they're stuck in there SD's trick will work.. rubber + fire = no rubber.
Cleaned them out and went in mostly by hand, then a bit of rubber mallet persuasion.
Thanks for the questions and comments

p.s: It feels better now, didn't think it'd make much difference but it slides better and less "bounce/judder" under accl out of corners and tracks a little straighter too.
fluox   +1y
I drive an 89 b2200, would bushings that would fit a 1993 b2200 also fit my year of truck? I'm pretty sure that is around when ford started to make Mazdas b's but isnt a 1989 the same body as a 1993?

like these guys?

Cusser   +1y


No to anything that lists Ford and Ford Ranger. Starting with 1994 year, Mazda trucks were essentially same as Rangers, made on same line in USA.

1986-1993 Mazda trucks were made in Japan. I doubt the linked bushings would actually fit a 1993 B2200, believe the information is in error.
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