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Yota Lowering \  Engine Driven Comp

Engine Driven Comp

Yota Lowering Yota Suspension Yota Tech
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replies 8
following 7
 
cajuntaco   +1y
Hey guys,

I'm looking to put an engine driven compressor on my 22re. Would it be ok to run it off the crank pulley since I don't have Power steering? I've seen a lot of guys run it off the alternator. I know the crank will spin it faster, is that ok?

-Ryan
baha   +1y
It should be ok but I doubt it will spin any faster, the crank is what drives all the engine driven accessories.

Do you have any install pics so far?
yodaforce   +1y
The alternator pulley is smaller, thus, turns more rpm's than the crank. However, the crank has more power to turn the compressor since it is the largest.
baha   +1y
Well it's more like a ratio, it will only spin as fast as the crank pully moves the belt through the pulley system, but because of the size of the alternator, and compressor pullies they will complete more revolutions then the crank pulley.

Say in half a belt rotation:
Crank Pulley rotates once.
Alternator Pulley rotates twice.
Compressor Pully rotates twice.

Because the rotations are one to one, say you move the compressor pulley to rotate off the alternator pulley:

Alternator Pulley rotates once.
Compressor Pully rotates once.

Ratios are the same, and speed hasn't changed.

To speed up the compressor you can change the pulley on it to a smaller one so it will complete more rotations relative to the crank, or rev the engine higher.
m_i_zombie   +1y
easiest thing to do is find a 22r/e and rob the ac compressor off it. mines been trouble free for over a year, just get an inline oiler.
zip tyd   +1y


I've heard people talk about this before. How actually do you do that? I'm curious. If it's not such a nightmare I would love to do it.

Sorry if this is noob question.
m_i_zombie   +1y
its really easy to do, i've got a couple pics here to help. don't mind the dirt, not having inner fenders suck!!

You have a high ( pressure/ exhaust ) and a low (suction/ intake) side on you compressor. The diagram will go something like this.

filter > inline oiler > ( to the compressor) > intake/ low it then exits the compressor on the high/ exhaust side >check valve > water/ oil trap > tank

thread post photo


Top pic is of the k&n filter then the oiler. Second pic shows the line running from the oiler to the compressor then exiting the compressor to the check valve and tanks.

thread post photo


I used a check valve for extra insurance just in case. you will need the oiler or go through the hassle of adding oil to it every so often. Since there is no freon, there is no oil to lubricate the piston in the compressor. The water/ oil trap will keep your tanks and valves from getting the excess. I have my compressor connected to my pressure switch with a manual overide. At idle ( 900 rpm ) and 0 psi it takes a little over 1 minute to fill to 130 psi. and 2 minutes to shut off at 200 psi.. Very seldom do I let it fill past 150 psi since it take 80psi to fill the front and 65 to fill the back for high ride height. And I used the original hoses, I had the one shortened by about 6in. plus had a new fitting to work with the pipe threads on the oiler.
oldsklminitrk   +1y
I think I did a thread on this I gotta go in and find it...I broke it down step by step....any you other nerds can find it post it up
90-b22dawg [andrew]   +1y
do a little research on google or yahoo or any search engine for that matter.... search for saden compressor, there is so much information on them its unbelievable... will get you a good start
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