Lowering question

Hi everyone. I was told by my uncle you could lower these trucks by flipping the leaf springs. Anyone heard of that? All I've seen her is using blocks. Not an expensive investment for the blocks, but I was just curious.

92 b2200
188830 mi
13000 on rebuild

Flipping springs is a bad idea. That will implant your axle into the frame and give a crappy ride. Blocks, a rear frame z (requires modification to the bed), de-arch rear springs, shackle slides welded in frame at the rear of the leafs. These are about your options for good ride and doing it right...

Thanks for the reply. I def want to do it right but was curious if that was possible.

There's tons of threads that explain the whole procedure minus the "Z" mentioned above. Only a few Z just for lowering sake, it's usually for bagging. Monoleaf the truck, 3" lowering blocks, reindex the torsions, flip the BJ's, get lowered shocks and remove the bumpstops. For less than $150 you can slam the truck in the weeds, (depending on tire/wheel set up), and have a decent ride.

VVVV My sig shows what it looks like on 17's with 205/40's.

I didn't necessarily z mine only for a static drop, I did it as a way to get one thing done and out if the way so I'd be one step closer to being able to bag it down the road (to further back 1hotdawg's suggestion that a rear frame z is more a bagger's thing rather than a static drop thing). Now, with my setup, I have a 3in rear frame z, full factory leaf pack, and 3in drop blocks, with load carrying rear shocks, and the bed mounts were raised 5in to accommodate the flat bed. I personally like the z because with a factory bed, you can keep a flat bed floor, you'll lose bed depth, but still be able to use the bed without a c notch hole, or a giant hump in the middle over the rear end. Imho it just looks cleaner.