Long time listener, first time writer>
Has any body ever port and polished a 2.0? A friend of mine told me I'd gain 50 to 75 horse. He said he did it to his miata and worked great. I haven't put any pictures on here yet I have a 87 b2000. I got it three months ago on trade. The guy had c nothched it with a tail pipe out the side. Did pretty good job on it. He gave me a spare motor and tranny with it so I'm doing to the motor in the truck what I can and when winter hits I'm going to crank into the one in the garage. I've already put the high performance carb on, which is being a royal pain in the a**, and a pacesetter header. With the engine I'm going to rebuild I'm going to go with a little bit bigger cam and thinking about port and polishing it with a bit bigger heads. Any advice would be great since out here on the prairie the winter is appoarching quickly.
Russ
you will gain a couple hp at best on this motor. A turbo application 50-75 hp is not uncommon, but not very many N/A motors except a rotary will so huge gain from a port and polish.
word.port and polish is for increased air (volumetric) flow at high rpm.these little trucks just wont turn that many rpm to make it worth while.might help ur gas mileage however.I ported polished and gasket matched mine but didnt notice much that wasnt already there.lol.bj
the heads are so poorly designed on these trucks that it really doesn't help. I researched it a while back and this is what I found out.
actually thehead is a great design for what the truck was designed for,around town hauling of light loads plus being stone cold reliable.They do that just fine.Its just when us nut cases start using them for things they werent designed for is when the problems appear.lots of dawgs have 150/ 200 k miles on them with no engine work at all.Thats pretty remarkable.lol.bj
You're right about that part of the head for sure, minus the valve guide seals of coarse.
haha,no way in hell you'd get 50-75hp out of them..the motor itself barely makes that much.
On my truck,I had my engine fully rebuilt,with the block bored out and my head was rebuilt and ported and polished.
While the truck was faster than stock,it was still slow as crap. It's A Mazda truck,it isn't a race car. Trying to get performance out of this motor is an uphill battle. Don't waste your money upgrading anything on your motor if it isn't broken or worn out. If it is,save your money and do an engine swap instead if you're really after some power.
Rotary,V8,Kia 2.0 and other small 4 cylinders are popular swaps that require little modification.
Anyways,if you can only work with what you have,you are on a good track with the carb (is it Weber or Holley?_ and the header. Don't waste your time on anything else with the motor,it just isn't worth the time and money for the benefits,or lack of,that you get in the end.
Of course Kermit had another handicap besides the engine-it had to hopalong instead of rolling and the driver was challenged as well.Lol.bj
The carb I put on is a weber 38 DGES and it is still a pain, for some reason I'll get the choke in the right spot then the air fuel isn't right once it is warmed up. I've read through the book and done the settings as instructed just still doesn't act right.
Russ
webers are notorious for responding to climate changes in not such a nice way-they r very sensitive.Find a mix setting that seems to work ok when the weather is nice mark it on the set screw with a dab of paint.Then find a setting that works when the weather is damp or lousy,mark that with a different color paint dab.Then change the setting when the weather changes.Lot of trouble but Weber owners are used to it..Also the 38 Weber or Outlaw as its commonly called is a big assed carb.If or truck is not modified,u may have too much carb.I have a modded truck and Im running a 34 and it does just fine.?????BJ