K
paint ploblems
suksgas
+1y
paint ploblems
Post was last edited on May 01, 2010 01:57. Edited 1
time.
liljlowrider
+1y
as far as your truck it just sounds like shrinkage which is normal. just wetsand and buff those little specks and they should go bye bye
as for as your freinds truck man if you sanded it really well it is probably a material issues causin it to delaminate. also water in the line can cause you issues like that too.
as for as your freinds truck man if you sanded it really well it is probably a material issues causin it to delaminate. also water in the line can cause you issues like that too.
lophat
+1y
What primer do you use?, which gun did you use...yours, or somone elses, What was shot in the gun last? What do you clean your guns with? Ya'll clean your guns at all?
Any contaminants in the air line will translate into problems. Oil, water it all sucks. Stick a moisture/oil trap on the line and a water trap on your gun by the pressure needle. Keep armor all and silicones, like tire dressing, the hell away form anything getting painted.
What products do you use? Using cheap product is overrated to make bucks. Usually doing it cheap, means doing it twice. Use one quality product line and charge accordingly...don't do the old "I got some laquer out back from that van I did in 76" thing. Product goes bad and has a shelf life, if it's old pitch it...trust me it's cheaper to pitch $50 worth of product, than it is to re-spray a car. And yas I have played mad scientist with adding some of this product and some of that product. Ususally you can play the game and win, but sometimes you lose. Reducers are VERY aggressive in some paint systems and milder in others, if you add reducer to paint and it looks like the two products are in the UFC ring...don't shoot it.
What is the surface? Is it metal? (real easy to prep) or plastic/fiberglass? (real hard to prep). Plastic needs plastic prep like Dupont's Plas-stick, or some kind of adhesion promoter to stick right. scuff stuff and a grey scotch pad. Metal is scuff and pre-clean over primer.
What do you pre-clean with? Use a quality pre-clean in a pump spray bottle, and remember to wipe twice, once to get the surface dry, and once to dry off any procuct you may have missed.
What grit sandpaper did you scuff it up with? Was it aggressive enough? Use 400-600 grit depending on the color.
Keeping stuff clean, and using good product will usually get the job done...and require less fix up later.
Any contaminants in the air line will translate into problems. Oil, water it all sucks. Stick a moisture/oil trap on the line and a water trap on your gun by the pressure needle. Keep armor all and silicones, like tire dressing, the hell away form anything getting painted.
What products do you use? Using cheap product is overrated to make bucks. Usually doing it cheap, means doing it twice. Use one quality product line and charge accordingly...don't do the old "I got some laquer out back from that van I did in 76" thing. Product goes bad and has a shelf life, if it's old pitch it...trust me it's cheaper to pitch $50 worth of product, than it is to re-spray a car. And yas I have played mad scientist with adding some of this product and some of that product. Ususally you can play the game and win, but sometimes you lose. Reducers are VERY aggressive in some paint systems and milder in others, if you add reducer to paint and it looks like the two products are in the UFC ring...don't shoot it.
What is the surface? Is it metal? (real easy to prep) or plastic/fiberglass? (real hard to prep). Plastic needs plastic prep like Dupont's Plas-stick, or some kind of adhesion promoter to stick right. scuff stuff and a grey scotch pad. Metal is scuff and pre-clean over primer.
What do you pre-clean with? Use a quality pre-clean in a pump spray bottle, and remember to wipe twice, once to get the surface dry, and once to dry off any procuct you may have missed.
What grit sandpaper did you scuff it up with? Was it aggressive enough? Use 400-600 grit depending on the color.
Keeping stuff clean, and using good product will usually get the job done...and require less fix up later.
ec_dually
+1y
yeah i had the same problem with my s-10 a few yrs back but it was a factory problem, cause somethign with the primer they used the paint was not etching into it or something so i got it repainted and next to no cost.. thanks to insurance.. lol
liljlowrider
+1y
yea thats what i was trying to say just didnt want to type all that stuff
lophat
+1y
Ha ha! ...too much stuff can go wrong these days. heck I probably STILL missed a couple of things.
They want us all in Canada shooting waterbase by 2009, no more solvent based reducing systems. Looks like i'm going back to school, dunno how far we can push the new stuff over-reduced in an airbrush.
They want us all in Canada shooting waterbase by 2009, no more solvent based reducing systems. Looks like i'm going back to school, dunno how far we can push the new stuff over-reduced in an airbrush.
liljlowrider
+1y
waterbase sucks
2000f350
+1y
are you sure it is not solvent pop
lophat
+1y
I was thinking the same thing, but three weeks after the fact? I figure he would have noticed that when he was unmasking the thing.
2000f350
+1y
well depends on the lighting sometimes to see the pop was it baked or what?