dssur
+1y
Originally posted by onehot69stepside
Edited: 4/24/2006 5:38:13 PM by onehot69stepside
I've heard alot of people do this rather than buying dropped spindles. It allows the upper balljoints to travel more, rather than binding. It will work just as long as your lower control can travel just as much as the upper, and alot of them can't because of the upper bag plate on the frame isnt high enough.
If you want to do it, reverse the balljoints and switch sides ( drv side goes on passenger side and vice versa) and the spacers they are talking about goes where the control arm mounts to the frame/spring housing where the camber is adjusted for alignment. You can machine up your own or just use a bunch of washers. You may also need to trim the arms in spots for clearance issues.
BUT REALLY, SCREW THE BULLCRAP... I'D BUY DROPPED SPINDLES!
I have no idea what you are talking about.
On a mazda you dont "flip" anything or switch side to side, you just move the balljoint from where its mounted on the bottom of the control arm to the TOP of the control arm, thereby raising the spindle the thickness of the balljoint plate, which is about an inch when you figure in the geometry. You have to trim a hump off the top of the lower arm to let the balljoint plate sit flat, and grind out the bottom of the lower arm to allow the bolts to fit up from the bottom.
The "spacer" that people refer to is inserted between the balljoint and the arm to give even more drop. You can make it yourself if you have a drill press, just use the lower balljoint plate as a pattern and drill accurate holes. You'll need new hardware.
And on a Mazda you dont want to use drop spindles, because the only company that makes them is shAim, and they push the wheel out about an inch requiring you to 1) run higher offset wheels (if thats possible on a mazda, which needs +37 on a 7 inch wide wheel) and 2) run at least 16's because anything smaller will bind the inner rim on the tie rod. Spindles on a mazda suck.