rides

zach's 1993 Mitsubishi Mighty Max 4 view(s) today

General

zach
  • 1993 Mitsubishi Mighty Max
  • Color: RealTree Hardwoods Snow
  • Mileage: 0

Highlights

Engine

Ford 5.0 HO maf EFI - A9P EEC-IV, TRW forged pistons, Ford MotorSports cam & roller lifters, Accel ignition, BBK Headers w/FlowMaster exhaust.

Exterior

Schedule-40 Front Bumper & Tailgate, designed and assembled by ZACH. Bed, Floor Board, Bottom of Sides and Bumper done with HercuLiner. 100w CIBIE 175 lights. 4 inch Body Lift.

Interior

Ford Ranger seats, '90 Ford Bronco Dash Bezel and Guages. B&M shifter with Center Console designed and crafted on our shop.

Audio

Pioneer MP3

Suspension

Upper A arms lengthened 7/8" for proper camber adjustment. Ford Bronco rear sway bar. Energy Poly Bushings through-out. 5 inch suspension lift for a total of 9 inches.

Wheels

Dick Cepek 10x15's w/BFG 33x12.50x15 rubber

Other

Push button electric shift BW-1356 transfer case. Northern Hi-Perf. aluminum radiator w/2- 12" puller fans. Power Steering, Brakes and AC retained.

Future Plans

An ongoing project!


Page 1 of 2
zach avatar
zach   +1y
Added my 1993 Mitsubishi Mighty Max!
qballd50 avatar
qballd50   +1y
Your Truck Looks Good!!!!
broccolilang avatar
broccolilang   +1y
Sweet bumper man!!! did ya have to make it yourself?
zach avatar
zach   +1y
yes!
hellpoolhall avatar
hellpoolhall   +1y
Man, I'm very curious as to how you made the 5 inch suspension lift for the truck. I have a 91 model I'm trying to lift, and short of a body lift, I can't find anything manufactured. Hit me back with something if ya don't mind.
zach avatar
zach   +1y
The front end can be raised with the torsion bars. It will take a little engineering to do so though. First the upper A arms need to be 3/4 inch longer. You will need to cut the upper A arms in half insert the proper size rectangle tubing in the underneath side to space the ball joint 3/4" farther out and weld them back together. The saddle that the torsion bar adjustment bolt pushes against will also have to be built up or you will not be able to put enough pressure on the torsion bar to get the full lift. If you can understand this then go for it! If not, show it a front end man that is a welder and knows his stuff and he will know what to do!
For the rear end, you can add helper springs, but it will make the truck ride much too rough. The best way is to move the rear axle to the underneath side of the leaf springs, which will also require some welding.
Good Luck!
zach avatar
zach   +1y
thread post photo
zach avatar
zach   +1y
thread post photo
zach avatar
zach   +1y
thread post photo
zach avatar
zach   +1y
thread post photo
Page 1 of 2